Marketing Fur
Most ranchers and trappers ship
their furs to one of the great auction houses in the
major fur-trading centers of the world. In the
United States, the chief auction houses operate in
Greenville, SC; Minneapolis, MN; New York City; and
Seattle, WA. Major Canadian auction houses are in
Montreal, North Bay, Ont.; Regina, Sask.; Vancouver,
BC; and Winnipeg, Man. Leading European fur auction
centers include St. Petersburg, Russia; London; and
Oslo, Norway.
The Hudson's Bay Company in Canada was the
world's largest fur-trading firm, the company closed
the last of its retail fur salons in 1991.
Representatives of auction houses visit
trappers and ranchers to arrange the shipment of
pelts to market. The largest cargoes of furs come to
market from November through February. Fur dealers,
manufacturers, and retailers attend the auction.
Buyers may examine several hundred thousand pelts in
the warehouses on examining days. The furs
are auctioned off on sales days. Buyers must
pay for their purchases on or before the prompt
day, which is usually about a month after the
sales day. On the prompt day, the furs are shipped
according to the buyers' instructions.
Processing Fur
Pelts bought at fur
auctions must be cleaned and made flexible by
a process called dressing. First, the
pelts are softened in a salt solution that
removes all excess tissue and grease. Next, the
processors apply a special grease to the leather and
put the skins into a machine called a kicker.
The kicker has wooden feet that pound the grease
into every pore of the skin. The pelts are then
placed in revolving drums, where they are cleaned
and dried with special sawdust and compressed air.
Later, the processors may pluck out the long guard
hairs, leaving only the thick fur fibers. The fur
may also be sheared shorter to give it a plush
effect.
Dyeing
Many furs are dyed
to improve their appearance or to make them
look like other types of fur. Processors may put
furs into a vat of dye, or they may dye entire coats
by hand. Sometimes dark fur is bleached and then
dyed a pale shade. In a special dyeing process
called tipping, only the tips of the fur
fibers are dyed. This process makes furs resemble
darker pelts of the same variety. Tipping helps the
manufacturer match several pelts to be used in the
same coat.
Cutting and Sewing
Furs differ in
quality and appearance, and so manufacturers must
carefully grade and match processed skins. A
manufacturer makes the pattern for a garment and
then selects the skins to be used. Workers stretch
the skins and trim off the heads, paws, bellies,
rumps, and tails. These parts are used to make
cheaper garments.
A worker
called a cutter trims and shapes the skins to
make the best use of the material. An operator
then sews the skins together to form a sheet of fur
that approximately matches the shape of the pattern.
Next, a worker called a blocker applies
small amounts of water to the skin to make it
stretch just enough to cover the edges of the
pattern; Then the fur is blocked, or
nailed, to a large pine board and left to dry.
Later, any surplus material is trimmed away, and the
fur is sewn into a garment. Finally, the garment is
cleaned and the lining is sewn in.